When you pull on one of Le Tricoteur's guernsey jumpers, you're not just donning an enduring classic; you're embracing a piece of history. The guernsey jumper, a traditional working garment, weaves a story as rich and intricate as the wool from which it is crafted.
The Origin of the Guernsey Jumper
While knitting on the island of Guernsey was documented as early as the 16th century, it was during the 17th century that the guernsey jumper began to solidify its role as a staple garment for the island’s fisherman.
These early origins of the guernsey fisherman jumper reflect the jumper’s deep-seated history in practical and durable knitwear. However, pinpointing the exact date when guernsey jumpers were first created has proven challenging. The difficulty in providing a definitive date lies in the fact that the clothes of working-class people were rarely recorded by historians.
The guernsey jumper remains everyday wear on the island and has become globally associated with the seafaring community. Sometimes referred to as a "gansey" in other regions away from Guernsey, where the design has adapted from the simple knit found on our island, to incorporate other fishing elements local to those coasts.
The traditional Navy blue jumper was originally knitted by the wives, mothers, and sweethearts of fishermen and farmers to stave off bracing winds and rain and has been adopted as a kind of National Dress for islanders in Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney, Sark and Herm.
Who Traditionally Wears a Guernsey Jumper?
The guernsey jumper was predominantly worn by fishermen. This traditional working garment was designed for practicality and durability, making it an essential part of a fisherman’s attire. The use of worsted wool meant that guernsey knitwear was extra durable and weather-resistant, springing back into shape after washing or a soaking in a storm. This made it an ideal garment for the harsh conditions faced by fishermen.
What is the Difference Between a Guernsey and a Jersey Jumper?
While both the guernsey and jersey jumpers hail from the Channel Islands, they have distinct differences. The guernsey jumper is traditionally knitted from 100% worsted wool, known for its strength and resilience. In contrast, the jersey jumper features a prouder neck and an anchor motif on the chest. Both have a square-shaped design and unique dropped shoulder seams and utilitarian triangle and diamond neck and arm gussets to allow movement.
The Role of Guernsey Knitwear in History
The guernsey jumper’s illustrious history includes notable admirers such as Elizabeth I and Mary Queen of Scots. Records from the Tudor era show a thriving trade in luxury knits from Guernsey when up to 50% of the population knitted for a living. These knitwear items, made from worsted wool, were of such high quality that they commanded high prices both at home and abroad and often featured in royal wardrobes. Mary Queen of Scots is rumoured to have worn guernsey knits in the form of white stockings (grimly) at her execution.
During the industrial revolution, guernsey knitters turned their skills to creating warm woollen jumpers for their seafaring menfolk. The durability and reversibility of these knits made them well-known and widely adopted. Admiral Lord de Sausmarez and Lord Nelson are both credited with promoting the guernsey jumper to the Royal Navy, which incorporated it into its winter uniform.
The Craftsmanship Behind Guernsey Knitwear
Le Tricoteur is once again a family-owned business and continues to produce guernsey jumpers with the same enduring practicality as when they were first created centuries ago. Starting in a modest garage, Le Tricoteur then moved to its first workshop in St Peter Port on the east coast of Guernsey in 1964 and grew exponentially until we occupied a large purpose built factory at the Bouet. Today, the company operates from the west coast near Fort Grey, in a converted fish factory no less! It is the only brand globally that continues to incorporate hand knitting into its jumpers and we drop off their knitting once a week to be collected by the next.
Making a guernsey starts with our vintage punch-card machines that knit the body and sleeves as fully-fashioned pieces. This means the stitches are increased and decreased according to size and the pieces are not cut out of one long bolt of knitted cloth. In turn this means they have a selvedge edge (not like a cut & sew) which if caught on a wily bramble, will not completely unravel. They are far easier to mend and look after. Truly a utilitarian workwear item.
Once the pieces are knitted they are passed to a team of trained knitters who work from home. These knitters finish the gusset for the underarm and individually create the shoulder seams and necks, incorporating the triangle neck gusset - all knitted by hand bringing a personal touch to every garment. This method ensures that each guernsey jumper is a piece of mastery, with a personal flourish just as it was many generations ago. Hand knitting is like hand writing and everyone who works on your guernsey will add their names to our labels.
Why Choose 100% Worsted Wool?
Le Tricoteur’s guernsey jumpers are made from 100% worsted wool, a high-quality yarn known for its long, fine, smooth fibres. Originating from the Norfolk village of Worstead, Le Tricoteur’s wool comes from our mill in the Pennines. Worsted wool's tightly spun fibres make it both durable and resilient. This wool was chosen by local folk to keep wet and windy weather at bay, and it continues to serve that purpose in modern guernsey knitwear. We use a heavier ply than what is known as "guernsey" wool but it is the same yarn, but spun to be more suitable for our flatbed machines.
Sustainable Knitwear: A Modern Legacy
In today's world, the importance of sustainable fashion cannot be overstated. Le Tricoteur's commitment to using 100% British wool and traditional knitting methods ensures that their guernsey jumpers are not only durable but also environmentally friendly. The longevity and quality of the traditional knitted jumper mean they are a sustainable choice, reducing the need for frequent replacements and minimising waste.
In addition, the techniques used in its creation have been passed down through generations, ensuring that the island of Guernsey maintain their traditional crafts with each jumper a testament to the skill and dedication of Guernsey’s knitters.
Additionally, the use of 100% British wool not only supports local industry but also upholds a standard of excellence that has been recognised for centuries. We are accredited by the British Wool Board and feature their shepherds crook label on every item.
The Lasting Appeal of the Guernsey Jumper
The guernsey jumper has stood the test of time for good reason. Its practical design, durable material, and rich history make it a beloved item of clothing. Whether worn by fishermen braving the elements or fashion enthusiasts appreciating its classic style, the guernsey jumper continues to be a symbol of timeless fashion.
When you wear a Le Tricoteur guernsey jumper, you're embracing centuries of tradition and craftsmanship. These jumpers are not just articles of clothing; they are pieces of living history, carrying the legacy of the Channel Islands and the seafaring communities who relied on them.
You can see a video of all our makers & more history about the guernsey and Le Tricoteur here (We even feature a bit of Guernsey patois at the beginning for those linguists who are interested).
